First introduced in about 1668 in the States to replace tea after the Boston Tea Party, drinking coffee was a patriotic duty and served to defy the British.
A Hawaiian Chief brought coffee plants back to Hawaii from Brazil in 1825. However, problems arose and sugar cane replaced the coffee crop except in Kona and Hamakua on the Big Island.
Coffee plants were first brought to Kona in 1828. These plantings were Coffee arabica originating in Ethiopia; the Arabs brewed coffee a thousand years ago and consumption of the beverage spread due to its ability to boost ones energy as well as the unique flavor of the bean.
"I think Kona Coffee has a richer flavor than any other, be it grown where it may and call it by what name you please."
Mark Twain, July 1866
A rise in world market prices in the 1890s prompted investing in coffee plantations. The coffee boom in Kona began and attracted Japanese and Filipinos. Initially working in the sugar plantations where conditions were harsh, many fled in pursuit of independence. The severe terrain made the 4 day journey from Hilo to Kona difficult but once reaching Kona, the community protected those who escaped the contracts, even assisting with changing their names to avoid punishment from the authorities. These Kona pioneers then lived self-sufficiently and the whole family took part in the production of coffee.
Market prices then stabilized fairly high and times were good even with the United States entry into World War I in 1917. But in 1929, coffee prices plummeted to an all time low due to the stock market crash. By 1934 there were 9 mills in Kona operated by Japanese but production was generally dominated by 2 mills with farmers having virtually no negotiating powers and by 1935 their debts became so large that many gave it up, those remaining mortgaged farms and crops for up to 30 years.
World War II (1939-1945) created discrimination towards the Japanese community and added to hardships. When martial law was declared after the bombing of Pearl Harbor on December 7, 1941, Japanese Americans were faced with a new dilemma: homes searched, lands confiscated, travel restrictions and curfews were enforced, beaches and deep-sea fishing were off-limits. Japanese schools and temples were closed, and family and social functions restricted. As the Japanese constituted 37% of the population, deportation and incarceration was not viable, though about 1,500 were placed in detention camps. The islands were now homes to millions of servicemen and other war personnel and Kona coffee farmers had new and increasing demands due to increased consumption.
World coffee market prices continued to rise after the war and coffee farmers gained independence by building of their own mills and becoming independent landowners. The post-war era gave way to diversification of crops as farmers could not survive on coffee production alone and began other plantings including macadamia nuts, avocados, and bananas to name a few.
When prices began to drop in the 1950s farmers were again faced with a coffee crisis. They felt they had to unify to have control of their crop, its processing, marketing and distribution. In the 1960s, two coffee cooperatives were established (merging into one in 1993). New hope was alive in the 1970s and 1980s with the rise and expansion of gourmet markets.
As historically seen, the 1990s continue to carry on with the ups and downs in the Kona coffee industry. The only constant that will not change is that we grow the finest coffee in the world.
